PROCEDURES FOR GRADING CUTTING PARTS OF WOMEN'S DRESS WITH CAD SYSTEM

Abstract

Each garment is made in a series of standard sizes depending on the purpose in the industrial method of clothing production. One of the very important, demanding and precise segments of the work of construction preparation is the grading of cut parts of garments. The work is conceived on the basis of two ways of grading the cut parts of a woman's dress, constructed by the CAD system. The first grading procedure is, as a rule, the starting point, based on when the cut develops in three directions. The second procedure is, as a rule, the output base, where the cut develops in all four directions. For grading, the method of difference between the sizes of the grading sequence of three larger and one smaller size than the base was used. The paper defines in more detail the procedures and the way of grading the main grading points when grading the cutting parts. People working in this preparation must have a wide range of knowledge and extensive work experience, knowing the important business factors in this area from: interpretation of design visions of created sketches of models that represent the nucleus in creating a new clothing model; knowledge of the properties of textile materials, which represent a fluid that needs to be tamed into an appropriate shape - the volume of a certain part of the human body for which the garment is made; knowledge of the rules of construction of clothing items; modeling of cutting parts, which implies their adaptation to the shape of the body and the given sketch of the model; completion of cut parts depending on the shape of the seams on the model sketch, the process of sewing clothes and the machine park owned by the company; grading of cutting parts according to the proportional amount according to the sizes from the work order for serial production; knowledge of the method of laying cutting layers for cutting, according to the choice of textile materials on which the method of making various types of cutting images depends. [1] It is necessary to consider a large number of influential factors that must be respected for work in this preparation, so that in today's period it is unthinkable work without the application of appropriate computer CAD systems. It has been developed through methods and procedures in order to rationalize the work and achieve greater precision. The work was performed on the CAD system of Gerber Technology, AccuMark 10.4. [2, 3] The construction of the basic cut of the women's dress was made for the base size 88 according to the measures from the SRPS standard for women's clothing (SRPS EN 13402-3:2018). [4, 5, 6, 7] It is possible to shorten the grading procedure via recorded grading rules for each main grading point, so that certain tools and procedures from the Grading menu assign a gradation to the cutting part using the given rules. In the paper, the movement in the appropriate directions is shown pictorially with arrows on the cutting back part of the dress for each main grading point. [8]