SPECIFICITIES OF CLOTHING MULTIPLICATION AND MODELING USING CAD SYSTEMS

Abstract

The fashion market imposes modern clothing, which, according to the purpose and type of clothing,
requires a large number of complicated production operations in the business production system (PPS) of the
clothing industry. In order to assert with certainty that the production operations are carried out efficiently and that
the products are in accordance with the requirements of the modern market, the modern concept of production
planning and control (PPC) is applied. The PPC concept must be supported by properly trained people from
different areas of competence equipped with different software systems depending on the organizational structure of
the company /Mihajlović, Milijić, & Jovanović, 2016/. The clothing production process is a very dynamic process in
which preparation (constructional, technological and operational), production - movement of materials (material
flows: tailoring, frontal fixing, sewing and finishing) is carried out, however, the control follows all segments of the
process as an intermediate control and on final control at the end. Companies in the clothing industry use different
software for the rapid realization of work orders through all stages of preparation and production in an era of rapid
fashion changes. The concept of interconnected departments using computers, which are directly or indirectly
related to the production process, is called the CIM concept (Computer Integrated Manufacturing). This concept
enables interconnection of powerful central computers with spatially dislocated computers of lower power or
terminals in all segments of the production cycle /Paunović & Maksimovoć, 2013/. This way of doing business
enables the immediate exchange of information, programs and management functions. CIM includes: CAD -
computer-integrated design, creation of models, cut parts and paper patterns, CAP - computer-unified list of parts
and energy sources, CAPP - computer-unified data for paper patterns, NC programs and plans of technological
operations, PPS - computers unified monitoring of capacity, time and materials, CAM - computer unified clothing
production process and CAQ - computer unified monitoring of product quality. / Ujević & Petrović, 2020/. The first
in a series of CIM concepts is a CAD system, this work shows the application and operation of the AccuMark 10.4
software from Gerber Technology. In the software, based on the sketch of the model, the basic construction of
women's pants and blouse cuts was made, using measures from the SRPS standard /SRPS EN 13402-3:2017/. The
cut parts were separated, and by applying the tables multiplication according to the appropriate rules, they were
multiplied by two smaller and three larger sizes than the base. The process of multiplication with such garments is
very interesting, because two garments (women's pants and blouse) are joined into one (jumpsuit) and the rules for
each of them must be followed. Specifically, with this model, multiplication was first performed on the pants using
the base size construction method and the difference in measurements between sizes. Respecting the rules of
multiplication of women's pants on the front part, the multiplication of the front part of the blouse was performed,
which required a deviation from the standard rules of multiplication of this part. The multiplication of the back of
the blouse was also done respecting the displacement of the points multiplication of the back of the pants in the
waist, which required the correction of the rules of multiplication of the blouse in this part.